by Sharon Niederman
Tamales are synonymous with the holidays, and since Christmas is only a few weeks away, you have probably been thinking about placing your order, unless you have a reliable tamale maker in the family, in the person of a loving abuelita or kind aunt.
If not the oldest food prepared on the planet, the tamale is surely a contender. The tamale, or tamal, as known in Nahuatl, the Aztec language, is estimated to be at least 8000 years old, which is well before the cultivation of corn. Originally made from maize, perhaps wrapped in banana leaves and baked on a hot stone, tamales are even part of indigenous origin beliefs: creators seeking to create a life form to inhabit Earth first tried mud, then wood, then finally, a tamale, which was so perfect that creator feared it would be overtaken. So, it misted the eyes of the tamale, to blur its vision, and thus was the human formed.
Tamales are made with fillings of pork, beef, chicken, chile, cheese, and even, for dessert, pineapple and raisin. The masa is a combination of cornmeal and lard, placed in a corn husk. The filling is slathered on the masa, like peanut butter, then the whole is folded like a neat envelope. This is generally a group project, and everyone who participates takes some home. And in the Southwest, no holiday table is complete without the cornhusk wrapped delicacy that has been enjoyed by warriors, kings, high priests, and certainly, the entire population as a beloved tradition.
I have been blessed with a neighbor who has become my adopted abuelita, who has been instructing me on the art and preparation of tamales, taught to young ladies of Mexican descent. If you would like to try your hand at making your own tamales this year, here are her recipes. They must be made in quantity, enough to satisfy a large crowd, and steamed until mouthwateringly fragrant. Here is Irene’s recipe as taught to her by her grandmother.
The process may seem complex – and I won’t lie, it is a lot of work – but is best understood when broken down into several steps. Some can be done ahead of time, such as cooking the meat.
DIY Tamales
1. Meat: take a 3 lb. pork roast with a fat side and a 2 lb. chuck roast. Place in slow cooker, cover with water. Add: 3 bay leaves, 1/2 bunch cilantro, 1 quartered onion, 1 bunch green onion, diced, 3 whole garlic cloves, 2 tsp. chicken bouillon and salt to taste. Cook on high 2-3 hours until tender. Remove meat, skin fat from pork and save, leave broth. When cool, shred.
2. Chile: Using at least one pound dried red chile, boil and strain.
3. Lard: Using 1 lb. box lard, add 1/4-1/2 cup broth, cream by hand until very smooth and a drop floats on a glass of water.
4. Fry shredded meat in oil, add 2 tsp. flour, saute, stir until well mixed. Add chile.
5. Masa: Using 5 lbs. prepared masa, add lard into large bowl and mix well. Also add the cooked fat from meat. Moisten until pliable with broth. Again, float a drop on water. If it sinks, keep mixing.
6. Take large box – several dozen – corn husks. Soak in hot water and wash well.
7. To assemble the tamale: Open husk. Spread 3 tbs. masa mixture on husk. Add 1 – 1/2 tablespoons meat. (If making Sonoran style, sprinkle a few mixed frozen vegetables and add 2 pimento-stuffed small green olives.) Fold into envelope so filling is sealed. Continue until ingredients used. In a tamale pot, or large stockpot with steamer, add 2-3 inches water. Standing tamales upright build into a conical shape around the center. Keep adding tamales.
8. Cover tamales with corn husks. Turn pot to high. When starting to boil, lower to medium. Steam for one hour. After one hour. If meat separates from husk, tamales are done. If not, steam a few minutes more.
